Hello again! I’m glad to have found a free morning because lots of exciting things have happened since my last update. On Monday of this week mum, dad and I headed on a little ‘road trip’ from Warsaw to Krakow. I wasn’t feeling particularly well on the Monday having caught a cold which, according to my parents, was the likely result of the flight to Europe and the air in the plane. In any event, it was really frustrating. Normally I don’t mind being sick because it means a day off from uni or work and an excuse to laze around on the couch, but not so much on holidays when there is lots to see and do.
Anyway, early into our drive we stopped by one of the many road-side fruit stands. This is organic fruit at its best! Mum bought a bag of apples, some plums and some red cherries. The apples weren’t that good (in my opinion, mum really liked them) – they had a potato-y texture. The plums and cherries were lovely though.

On Monday we did lots of driving. I’m a bit scared to have a go at driving because the whole driving on the right-hand side of the road thing still confuses me a bit, so I’m leaving it to dad. There was a very funny moment when both mum and dad went to the wrong side of the car and didn’t notice until they had their seatbelts on. You had to be there.
On the way to Krakow, we stopped first in a town called Czestochowa and a place called Jasna Gora, which is is the most famous shrine to the Virgin Mary in Poland and the country’s greatest place of pilgrimage – for many it is Poland’s spiritual capital. Here you can see the image of Black Madonna, to which miraculous powers are attributed, and for which Czestochowa is very famous. The place had a very calming atmosphere. I instantly felt at ease and at peace there.
After our visit to Czestochowa, we hit the road again to finish the journey to Krakow. Along the way, we stopped for some lunch. I had a zupa grochowa (split pea soup) which is traditionally made using green or yellow split peas, bacon, diced ham, potatoes, carrots and celery, and left chunky.

My mum had one of her favourite Polish dishes (she’s eaten this 3 times since we’ve been here!) called Flaki (tripe soup). I’ve never really been a fan…

My dad orded for himself barszcz czerwony (beetroot soup) and a krokiet (a fried pastry stuffed with mushrooms).

And then we all shared probably one of Poland’s most well-known dishes pierogi. These were meat-filled ones, made with Pork, which are my favourite kind.

We finally arrived in Krakow late in the afternoon and after checking into a hotel, we walked to rynek Krakowski (the main square) where we saw the beautiful Kosciol Mariacki (St Mary’s Basilica) which was built in the 13th century. A trumpet call is sounded from the church’s main tower every hour which always ends abruptly midstream. According to legend, the tune was played during a Tatar invasion by a guard warning citizens against the attack. He was shot by a Tatar warrior while playing, the melody breaking off at the moment he died.

That evening, we headed out to dinner and shared amongst the three of us a plate of meat (pork, chicken, sausage) and some vegetables.

… and also some salad.

At home I don’t eat a lot of meat (only poultry) but I’m really enjoying the meat-heavy cuisine in Poland. It is interesting to see how my ‘tastes’ have adapted while overseas. I am truly in love with Polish food!
Breakfast the next day was at the hotel. I haven’t really taken any pictures of my breakfasts while in Poland (which is ironic, because before I went away most of my pictures were of breakfast!) I guess it’s because it hasn’t been especially note-worthy. At the hotels, I generally had museli and yogurt. At my Aunt’s, I eat oats. A Polish breakfast can be quite varied but the very ‘traditional’ variety includes cold meats, salads, eggs and bread.
So back to our second day. As we were walking around, I noticed these bread stands everywhere. They sell rolls and pretzels, called obwarzanki.

My dad bought one… The great thing about travelling with my parents is that when they buy anything, I always have a bite or two

During our second day in Krakow we went to see the famous Wawel Hill, crowned by Wawel Castle and Wawel Cathedral, which was the seat of royal power up until the 17th century. Wawel Castle was built in the 14th century at the behest of Casimir III the Great. The Castle was home to many Polish kings and queens and the royal crypts in the Cathedral marks their final resting place, along with several other Polish heroes.
After our visit to Wawel Hill, we snacked on some goralskie oszczypki (smoked ‘mountain’ cheese).

Later on we had some more ice cream (I think the reason they can pile it on so high is because it is quite icy so it can stay upright) and mum had gofry (Polish waffles!).Yeah, they were awesome.

Apart from meat, cheese is a big part of Polish cuisine…

And so is bread! The little bowl on the left contains smalec which is spread on bread and is made from lard with onions and bacon. Although it sounds kind of bad it is actually really really tasty. Enjoy this in moderation

This was my dinner on the second night in Poland – golabki – which are cabbage dumplings filled with ground beef, chopped onions and rice, baked in a spicy tomato sauce.

And yes, I’ve ventured into new drinking territory while here in Poland – beer (or piwo in Polish). I’ve never been a big beer drinker but the ones I’ve tried here have really been quite nice. My favourite has been one called ‘Tyskie’ which has a clean after-taste and none of the nasty bitterness I attribute with beer. Gina, are you proud?

And yes, I have still been faithful to Polish vodka. At a lot of restaurants, after you finish your meal, you are given a shot of wisnowka which is a sweet cherry vodka. Very yummy!

On our next day in the Krakow region, we headed out to a town called Wieliczka to visit the famous Polish salt mines, which had been operating since the 13th century! The tour features statues of historic and mythic figures which are all sculpted out of rock salt. Even the crystals of the chandeliers are made from rock salt! The mine is a really interesting place, and more than 1 million people visit each year. That’s about 6 thousand each day! Notably, the salt mines of Wieliczka were on the first World Heritage List ever.

On our last day, we went to Oswiecim which is not far from Krakow and is the location of the former Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration and Extermination Camp, which is now a state museum. It was an incredibly sad but significant visit. Below is a picture of the infamous entry point of the camp with the ironic phrase ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ which means ‘work makes you free’ or ‘work brings liberation’.

On the way back to Warsaw, we stopped in a town not far from Kielce to visit my mum’s family. This was an interesting experience for me because I essentially met a lot of my relatives for what felt like the first time. Although I was last in Poland 8 years ago, I haven’t seen my mum’s side of the family since my first visit (when I was 5!) It’s a little strange to meet people you have a blood connection with, but don’t really know.
While there, we were served the most amazing food, made by my cousin who is a chef, and nearly all of which was made from food produced by my Aunt on her property. First were the cold platters, filled with cheeses, meats, breads etc. Then came the hot meals, with more meat, potatoes and vegetables. The servings were absolutely enormous. It was quite literally too much food, but despite our protests, we were told to eat! One thing I have noticed about Polish people is the incredible hospitality they show when you visit their home. I used to be embarassed when my mum would constantly offer my friends food when they were at my house, but now I understand! You will never enter a Polish person’s house without being offered a proper meal. A special effort is always made.
I will leave you with a picture of some of the Polish candy we bought to my Aunt’s house as a gift for the children.These are called Krowki (cows) and are little sugary creamy buttery lollies which are so delicious, you may indeed turn into a cow if you eat too many.

So my last week has been truly wonderful. I am in Poland for another 10 days before heading to Paris, which is a little unbelievable to me! The time is going so fast!
Apart from the excitement of seeing new things, I also found out I did well in all my exams and will be graduating from my law degree with first class honours. Life is good on all fronts at the moment
I hope you are all well and I look forward to doing some blog reading of my own soo!
A trumpet call,
hejnał mariacki, is sounded from the church’s main tower every hour. The melody played ends unexpectedly in midstream. According to legend, the tune was played during a
13th-century Tatar invasion by a guard warning citizens against the attack. He was shot by a Tatar warrior while playing, the melody breaking off at the moment he died